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Whenever curating a list of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee well-known high-end venues. But, nestled high among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung part of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The honour has left the family totally shocked.

“I am utterly surprised,” states a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest place securing such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than usual, giving it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.